Solo hiking the Velika Paklenica Trail in Paklenica National Park was one of my favourite adventures during my month-long trip to Croatia.
I stayed two nights in Starigrad Paklenica and visited the park for one day, following the most popular route from Entrance 1 through the spectacular Velika Paklenica Canyon to the mountain hamlets of Ramići and Parići.
Most people visit Croatia for the historic cities, island hopping and turquoise coastline – which I absolutely did too – but swapping the coast for a day in the mountains was an amazing decision. Hiking through towering limestone canyons along peaceful trails felt like discovering a totally different side of Croatia.
Paklenica National Park isn’t just hiking, either, it’s Croatia’s top rock climbing destination, and even one of the best in Europe!
In this guide, I’ll share my experience along with everything you need to know to plan your own visit.
Is Paklenica National Park worth visiting?
Yes! Paklenica National Park is absolutely worth visiting, especially if you enjoy hiking, climbing, nature and mountain scenery.
The park feels unique compared to the country’s most travelled routes. The dramatic mountain scenery, impressive canyons, and peaceful forest trails make it stand out from the popular coastal towns and cities.
Paklenica National Park is also really set apart from other more popular national parks in Croatia, such as Plitvice Lakes and Krka National Park. Rather than following crowded boardwalks and chasing waterfalls, you’ll spend the day in Paklenica walking through dramatic limestone canyons with surprisingly few other hikers around.
Even the main canyon trail – The Velika Paklenica Trail – is quite easy to walk, making it accessible for most people while still feeling like a proper mountain experience. If you’re a more avid hiker, there are more difficult trails you can tackle such as the Mala Paklenica Trail, or even set out on a multi-day hike deeper into the Velebit Mountains. There really is something for everyone!
An added bonus of visiting Paklenica National Park? You’re still not far from the beaches of Starigrad Paklenica, making it easy to combine a day of hiking (or climbing) with a swim or watersports before or after your visit.
If you’re planning a Croatia itinerary, Paklenica is an easy, well worthwhile day or overnight trip from Zadar.
📍 Paklenica National Park at a Glance
- 📍 Location: Starigrad Paklenica, Croatia
- 🥾 Best day hike: Velika Paklenica Trail (Entrance 1 route, suitable for all levels)
- ⏱️ Time needed: 5–8 hours (full day experience)
- ⛰️ Difficulty: Easy to moderate (well-marked route, gentle incline)
- 🎟️ Entrance fee: ~€10 (peak season)
- 🚌 From Zadar: under 1 hour by car or doable by bus (limited departures, best with overnight stay)
- ⭐ Best for: Hiking, climbing, canyon scenery, and a quieter alternative to Croatia’s busier national parks
Watch my Paklenica National Park Hiking Vlog
Want to see what hiking the Velika Paklenica Trail is really like? I filmed my entire day hiking through the canyon, including the walk to Ramići and Parići, along with plenty of the incredible scenery you’ll see along the way.
Where is Paklenica National Park & How to Get There
Paklenica National Park is located in Zadar County, making Zadar the closest major city, at around a 45-60 minute drive away.
🏙️ Spending time in Zadar before/after visiting Paklenica National Park? Check out my Zadar travel guide here
The park’s main entrance, Entrance 1 (Velika Paklenica), is located in the small coastal town Starigrad Paklenica. It can be reached by bus from Zadar – you can check times and availability here on Busbud. Buses aren’t very frequent, and since they operate as part of longer routes, they can fill up – so it’s worth booking in advance. From Starigrad Paklenica, it’s around a 20-30 minute walk to the main entrance.
If you’re travelling by car, you can drive directly to the entrance where there is a paid car park available. Spaces can fill up during the busier months, so it’s best to go early. Renting a car in Zadar is the most convenient way to reach Paklenica and explore nearby spots like Zadar’s coastline and other national parks.
Best Time to Visit Paklenica National Park
After visiting Paklenica National Park at the beginning of September, I’d say it felt like an ideal time to go.
It was hot and a bit sweaty at times, but at no point did I think ‘it’s too hot’ or ‘I’m exhausted from the heat’. I did get through a lot of water though, more than I imagined I would – and I was glad for the refill point along the trail!
In terms of crowds, it struck a really nice balance. I loved that I never felt completely alone for long, but the trail also never felt busy or like a tourist trap. Most of the time it felt like I had large sections of the canyon trail to myself, which made it more magical!
In September, Paklenica didn’t feel like a major tourist attraction. Instead, the crowd levels gave it more of an ‘underrated gem added to my itinerary’ kind of vibe!
Based on my experience, the best time to visit is generally April–May and September–October, when conditions are similar to what I had.
Where to stay near Paklenica National Park
I highly recommend staying near Paklenica National Park to fully enjoy your experience and the surrounding area. Especially if relying on public transport as I was – limited connections back to Zadar will tie you to specific departure times and you may end up watching the clock more than you’d like!
There are plenty of apartments and guesthouses available in Starigrad Paklenica, making it easy to base yourself right by the park entrance. An excellent option near the park entrance is Apartment Anića Kuk, while Villa Veca is the perfect central, beachfront base.
👉 Browse accommodation options in Starigrad Paklenica here
A two-night stay in Starigrad Paklenica worked perfectly for me. It gave me time to enjoy the coastline on arrival day, spend a full day hiking in the national park without worrying about transport, and then enjoy a relaxed beach morning before heading back to the city by bus.
✨ I’ve written a more in-depth guide on staying near Paklenica National Park, which you can check out here.
My Solo Hiking Experience on the Velika Paklenica Trail
Walking from Starigrad Paklenica to Paklenica National Park Entrance 1
I left my accommodation in Starigrad Paklenica at around 10:40am, enjoying the freedom of not having to leave super early, rush for a bus, or stick to a strict timetable since I could simply walk to the entrance (and back at the end of the day).
The walk from the centre of town was straightforward. I headed along the main road (featuring sea views), before turning left just past the Tommy Hipermarket (a handy supermarket stop to grab snacks before heading into Paklenica National Park). The route is easy to follow thanks to clear road signs, and the road leading directly to the entrance is even called Paklenica Ulica.
As I wandered along Paklenica Ulica, the scenery shifted from coastal vibes to mountain magic – the impressive mountain peaks rising directly ahead. There was no doubt Paklenica National Park was going to be impressive!
The road veers right at one point, with a Paklenica National Park sign guiding the way.
Tickets & Entrance Fee
A little further up, I reached Entrance 1 and the ticket office. There is an entry fee, and you can buy tickets online in advance, or on arrival. I bought mine at the entrance, which was quick and straightforward as it wasn’t busy when I arrived around 11am in September, and I paid €10 (the entrance fee varies slightly depending on the season, with cheaper rates outside peak months).
However now I realise you can save a small percentage (5%) if you book through the website. Plus, if you’re visiting during the busier peak summer months, you can avoid potential queues. That said, in my case, buying on arrival was completely fine.
- Entrance fee: around €10 in peak season for a day ticket (cheaper outside peak months)
- Where to buy: Online in advance or at Entrance 1
- My experience: I bought mine on arrival around 11am in September – quick and no queue
- Tip: Online tickets can save ~5% and help avoid queues in summer
Once through the ticket area, it’s around 1.5-2km further up the road to the actual Velika Canyon entrance. So if you’re driving you can drive further into the canyon, as there are parking spots. For me, though, it was time to properly start my hiking day and join the first trail: the Education Trail.
Pjeskarica Education Trail from Entrance 1
The Pjeskarica Education Trail is a very easy, short (1.5km), flat walk. It’s almost like a little warm-up hike for what’s to come!
It begins by the Paklenica mills and leads to the main Velika Paklenica canyon entrance area.
I saw only a handful of other people on the trail, which really added to the chill, relaxed atmosphere. Along the way, there are information boards and signs about the park (hence the name ‘education’ trail), as well as shaded sections among the trees and even some picnic tables.
Entering Velika Paklenica Canyon
The end of the Education Trail feels like the real ‘main’ entrance into the canyon area.
Just across a bridge leads to the main car park, which is just a short walk from Paklenica’s Visitor Centre, known as the ‘Underground Secrets of Paklenica’. It’s said to be worth going in, however being too eager to begin the hike, I skipped it – woops! There are toilets along here as well as a gift shop.
On arrival in this area, I was struck by the impressive mountains towering above me. The blue sky and grey rocks contrasted nicely, really making the cliffs stand out.
I also noticed the number of climbers, with some setting up their gear while others were already on the rock faces. Climbing seemed to be more popular than hiking!
Hiking the Velika Paklenica Trail, Paklenica National Park
A little past the entrance area amenities is a short uphill climb, which marks the real beginning of the hike. The park is well signposted, with information boards and hiking maps. I’d decided to hike to Lugarnica, and if I was still feeling good, continue on to the mountain hamlets of Ramići and Parići – which I did do (point C on the map below!).
Although I’d already covered a few kilometres of walking by this point, I was excited to finally start the main hike and get deeper into Paklenica National Park. The scenery is stunning from the very beginning, with towering canyon walls and rugged mountain peaks surrounding the trails.
The busiest section for me was right at the start. Even then, there weren’t too many people around despite it being a beautiful day in early September – there certainly weren’t the crowds of say, Plitvice Lakes for example! It didn’t take long for the small crowds to thin out, leaving the trail feeling peaceful and Paklenica National Park even more magical.
From the outset, I absolutely loved my hike in Paklenica.
There’s a bit of a climb at the beginning, but it’s gradual and very manageable. Before long, I already felt much deeper within the canyon, completely surrounded by the limestone cliffs. The terrain was also much easier than I’d expected. It’s mostly a wide, well-maintained path with no scrambling or technical sections. From what I’ve read, some routes starting from Entrance 2 are steeper and more technical, but this route from Entrance 1 is suitable for beginner hikers. Overall, it was giving very chill hike vibes!
After around 40 minutes of walking from the Visitor Centre area (including stops to admire the scenery and take photos!), I reached a fork in the trail where one path leads to Manita Peć.
Manita Peć Cave
I stayed on the main Velika Paklenica Trail towards Lugarnica, but many hikers branch off here to visit Manita Peć, the only show cave open to visitors within Paklenica National Park. It’s a very popular attraction! From here, it’s around a 40 minute hike away.
Manita Peć is only open at specific times, and entry is via a guided tour (for an extra fee), so it’s worth planning ahead if you want to include it in your hike. Tickets can be bought at the cave entrance with cash before joining a group tour.
Continuing the Velika Paklenica Trail to Lugarnica Forest Cottage
Continuing on the main route, Lugarnica forest cottage was signed-posted as being a further 40 minutes, with Planinarski dom Paklenica (Paklenica mountain lodge) 1 hour 10 minutes of walking.
So my next main point to head to was Lugarnica! From here, the trail became even quieter. I loved feeling like I had the trail to myself, while also knowing there were in fact people so nearby.
Around 10 minutes away from Lugarnica I came across a couple of things I didn’t expect – fresh, cold drinking water and even a couple of donkeys coming down the trail! Both were a welcome surprise.
While I’d come prepared with plenty of water and parts of the trail were shaded, it was still a hot day for hiking. I was really thankful to be able to refill up my water bottles and not worry about running out, especially as the water was cold and refreshing! One of the donkeys came down for a drink, too. There’s also a bench here where you can take a short break before continuing on the trail.
Just after this, I passed a sign pointing towards Veliko Rujno and Njive, where another trail veers away from the main Velika Paklenica route. I continued on, now just around 5 minutes’ walk from Lugarnica and about 35 minutes from the mountain hut.
Lugarnica Forest Cottage: First Catering Stop on Velika Paklenica Hiking Trail
Around 4km from the main car park now, over a small bridge on the opposite side of the stream, sits Lugarnica forest cottage. This ‘cottage’ is in fact more of a café – offering a place to have a bite to eat and something to drink. It has outdoor tables and benches, with some shade from the trees, so it can be the perfect stop for a respite along the trail.
During my visit, the opening hours were stated as 10am-5pm. I reached this point around 1pm, and there were people enjoying some lunch. Me however being classic budget backpacker who is used to being prepared, had brought lunch with me so I didn’t actually stop for anything.
By the cottage, on the main trail side of the stream, are also some toilets – the first toilet stop since the entrance. I actually didn’t even know there would be any along the trail! That said, don’t expect running water toilets – but at least there are some facilities!
Lugarnica to Paklenica Mountain Hut
The sign here states it’s a 30 minute walk now to Planinarski Dom (mountain hut).
Leaving the little bit of extra life Lugarnica provided behind, I continue along the trail by the stream. It was really quite flat, very easy and very quiet along here. I loved it!! And by the way, if you’re visiting in summer, know that there’s a high chance there won’t be any water in the stream for a chunk of this walk… but a little further on I heard the sound of the water running and the stream was really a stream now!
There were some really gorgeous sections, where I had to go right down to the stream and enjoy the tree covered stream scenes in the canyon.
I could hardly believe there was barely anyone around for most of this section. That said, there was one couple with a dog who I kept overtaking, then them me (I couldn’t help stopping a little too often to take everything in!). The little dog was definitely enjoying the stream at times!
Further on, the path became a little rockier underfoot again, but still only ever a gentle incline, and opened up more to more extensive mountain views ahead. Along the way there were more information signs, such as that telling of the Beech forests on the UNESCO World Heritage List – keeping the walk interesting!
And before I knew it, the next main point was reached – Paklenica mountain Lodge.
Paklenica Mountain Hut (Planinarski dom Paklenica)
Around 6km from the main car park now, a small bridge over the stream leads to Paklenica Mountain Hut (Planinarski dom Paklenica).
With its distinct red coloured shutters and balcony area, it stands out among the predominantly green and grey environment. The Croatia flag blowing in the breeze just so you don’t forget what country you’re in!
Similar to Lugarnica, there was, unsurprisingly, some extra life by here.
For anyone spending multiple days in the park, Paklenica Mountain Lodge offers a place to stay, giving hikers quicker access to trails that venture deeper into the national park. A sign outside the lodge points the way to Vaganski vrh (5 hr 30 min), as well as Struge (3 hours) and Buljma, two landmarks along the same route into the Velebit Mountains.
This also marks another lunch spot, with a shaded outdoor seating area. At the mountain lodge you can expect some traditional mountain hut food from fresh bread to soup and bean stew, alongside hot or cold drinks.
Many day hikers make this their end point, but for me, I wasn’t ready to turn around yet. So, I continued on to the next significant points in the park – the mountain villages of Ramici and Parici.
Hiking to Ramići & Parići Hamlets in Paklenica National Park
Just a few steps up from the lodge is a small man-made pond, created as a water reservoir. I loved this spot and actually made it my picnic lunch spot on the return. But for now, it was time to keep going!
From here, it’s not far at all to the small hamlets, so I was glad I added this on. The path splits in two directions – one leading to Ramići and the other to Parići. I headed first to Ramići.
Reaching a more open area, I could see a small building peeking through the trees – welcome to Ramići, the more visited of the mountain hamlets. A few minutes later I reached it: a simple stone house that functions as a small seasonal catering stop for hikers.
There was a handwritten daily menu board with options like bean soup, goulash, apple strudel, cheesecake, and a range of drinks.
While I (again) didn’t stop to eat, if I had to pick my favourite catering stop on the trail so far, this would be it. There were more people here than I expected, and it just had a really nice vibe. Sitting slightly higher up, it also offered lovely views over the green expanse of Paklenica National Park.
I then headed back down the way I came and took the turnoff for Parići, just a short walk away. Parići is even smaller and quieter, feeling more remote and tucked away. Simple food and drinks are also available here.
Both Ramići and Parići offer open views over the forested areas of Paklenica National Park, but the atmosphere at each is quite different – Ramići feels more social and lived-in by hikers, while Parići feels quiet and almost forgotten.
While I didn’t stop for anything in either hamlet, Ramici would take the win for me in terms of the best spot to relax while hiking in Paklenica National Park. It’s a simple but welcoming stop, whether you’re heading deeper into the park or looking for a relaxed break before heading back down the trail.
I decided this was my turnaround point, and started the walk back the way I’d come.
Return Journey
The return journey couldn’t have been simpler – an out-and-back route.
I stopped off by the mountain hut, found a spot on the rocks beside the pond, and enjoyed my picnic lunch, really satisfied with my hiking day so far!
After a relaxed break, I set off again.
On the way back, I once again passed some donkeys and stopped to refill my water bottle, and didn’t see many other hikers until nearer the entrance area.
Even though it was the same trail in reverse, it never felt boring. I got to experience the canyon again, this time from a different angle, and I wasn’t complaining, the vibes were still high!
If anything, I reached the entrance area sooner than I was ready to, not quite wanting to leave the Velika Paklenica Trail behind. But I still had a good few kms to go, since I was returning on foot to Starigrad Paklenica.
I rejoined the Education Trail and, still with some energy left, decided to add one last little adventure, aka detour, before heading back to town.
The ‘Paklaric’ Viewpoint and Fort, Paklenica National Park
On the way into the park I’d spotted the sign Vidovak Viewpoint ‘Pogled U Povijest Historical View’… but I didn’t head up there, until now!
The trail climbed from the start, with some tree coverage before, around 5-10 minutes of walking later, it opened up to the first sea views I’d seen since leaving Starigrad Paklenica in the morning! Around 5 minutes later I could see the town more clearly below, and knew I had made an excellent decision to add on this hiking section.
I passed only a couple of other hikers, so it felt like I’d discovered a secret spot. The fact that it was later in the day by now maybe contributed to how quiet it was, though!
It only takes around 15-20 minutes walking to reach the viewpoint, which offers amazing views over the sea, which is actually the Velebit Channel, as well as the town of Starigrad Paklenica and beyond below. That’s not all, though, the Velebit Mountains of Paklenica National Park are of course all around too – sea views in front, mountains behind – perfect.
This viewpoint felt like the icing on the cake to top off my hiking day in Paklenica National Park!
From there, I ventured back down the way I’d come, passed the ‘goodbye’ sound and made my way back into town in time to catch a gorgeous coastal sunset from Starigrad Paklenica.
Beginning from and returning to my accommodation in town, I covered 22.5km of walking for my day hiking in Paklenica National Park. If that sounds too much for you, don’t worry, you don’t need to hike as far on the Velika Paklenica Trail as I did to make it worth it, and if you’re driving and don’t walk from town, that’ll save you a good few kms already!
There really is something to suit all levels of hikers in Paklenica National Park, and it’s well worth a visit!!
Tips for visiting Paklenica National Park
- Buy entrance tickets online to save 5%
- Enter via entrance 1 (Starigrad Paklenica) to access the main Velika Paklenica Trail, which is a trail suitable for most
- Wear sturdy shoes (I wore running shoes which were fine, but proper hiking shoes would provide more stability!)
- Bring plenty of water (you can fill up on route, but it’s best to come prepared)
- Bring a power bank to keep your phone charged – it can be a long day and you’ll want to snap lots of photos
- Stay in nearby Starigrad Paklenica for the most relaxed way to visit
Is Paklenica National Park good for a day trip from Zadar?
Yes and no.
If you have a car, Paklenica National Park is an excellent, hassle-free day trip from Zadar. It’s only around a 45–60 minute drive, and there’s parking available at the entrance for a small fee, making it very straightforward to visit.
However, if you’re relying on public transport, things become a bit more limited. There are only a few daily bus connections between Zadar and Starigrad Paklenica (for Paklenica National Park) and while it is possible to do as a day trip – there’s currently a bus which leaves Zadar’s main bus station at 8am, with the latest return at 5pm – it may make the day a little more ‘stressful’ timing-wise. Keep in mind there’s a walk from the bus stop in Starigrad Paklenica to the entrance ticket booth, followed by the 1.5km Education Trail before you even reach the main canyon.
🚌 You can check current bus times and book tickets here
So if travelling by bus, I’d strongly recommend staying a couple of nights in Starigrad Paklenica for a more relaxed experience (plus time to enjoy the coastline!), then then return to Zadar via bus (that’s what I did!).
Final Thoughts from My Day Hiking in Paklenica National Park
My solo hiking day in Paklenica National Park, hiking the Velika Paklenica Trail as far as Ramići & Parići (and back again), was an absolute highlight of my Croatia trip.
It felt more unique and slightly off the beaten path compared to many of the more popular travel routes in the country, especially considered the low crowd levels during my visit.
From the impressive canyon walls to the stunning mountain scenery, the day really was one to remember! Hiking the Velika Paklenica Trail wasn’t a stressful or exhausting experience (even after 22.5km total!), but rather one that just felt really rewarding.
While I only scratched the surface of what the park has to offer, I’m really glad I added Paklenica National Park to my Croatia itinerary!
